Maxie's Ceviche

Tonight, we took some friends from out of town to Maxie's, which, being Cornell Commencement weekend, was packed to the brim. After waiting and chatting at the bar for an hour, during which time I nursed one of their heavenly and potent mint juleps, we were rewarded with a comfortable, secluded corner of the patio. Everything on the menu is first-rate. But having sampled them all at least ten times already, I opted for the mini-plate special: a rock shrimp ceviche, which I supplemented with a side of grits and Tasso sauce.

The ceviche arrived in a generously filled martini glass accompanied by a slice of crostini. The first bite sent me to the moon. This ceviche was more of a salad, bursting with slices of red onion, basil chiffonade, sliced and seeded hot peppers (serrano?), and — the masterstroke — radish sprouts. The sprouts stood in the foreground with a peppery herbaceousness that perfectly complemented the more earthy basil. The heat from the serranos was unerringly judged, and the marinade had an intense citrus essence that was more perfume than acid. And although I normally avoid raw onion, here, it provided a welcome familiar foil to the other headier flavors. The shrimp itself was abundant, fresh, firm like lobster, and light in flavor, providing a sturdy foundation for this sensitively blended mélange.

I love Maxie's for their comfort food, but this dish touches on something rare and exquisite. Go get it while it's still on the menu!