Fine Line Bistro

It's high time that I wrote about my new favorite restaurant in Ithaca, the Fine Line Bistro on State Street. Located just a few blocks from the Commons, in the former home of Gepetto's Pizzeria, this neighborhood eatery features a completely redesigned interior that is stylish and inviting. The front walls are a warm, fiery orange, which contrast with the gleaming chrome tables, spaced just far enough apart to allow for private conversation. The long brick wall on the right-hand side is a showcase for local art. And, most striking, the kitchen is situated at the front of the restaurant, not the back, and is open to the dining room. This way, diners can more easily appreciate the eyebrow-singeing columns of flame that occasionally erupt from the stove. Best of all, the food lives up to this theatricality.

The first thing to arrive at the table is always a plate of pickled asparagus spears to munch on while perusing the mouth-watering menu. On our first visit here, at the end of March, Rob and I started with the black pepper seared scallops with dill aioli. It was perfect (I'll be using that word a lot). Scallops are notoriously finicky to cook, and these were done just right, firm and springy, slightly browned on the outside, and without any of the bitter rubbery texture that overcooking produces. The floral richness of the aioli matched the mild, fresh flavor of the scallops.

Other appetizers we have enjoyed since then are crab fritters with mango/papaya salsa (a great combination), panzanella (a huge portion of tomatoes, cucumbers, and bread in a balsamic vinaigrette), gazpacho (a perfect balance of flavors), vichyssoise (light and refreshing), beet salad, and spinich and goat cheese crostini. This past Friday, we had two seasonal appetizers. Rob chose a roasted corn and chipotle soup with homemade chorizo that was smoky, spicy, and full fresh corn flavor. I ordered the beer-battered pokeweed (young shoots, I think) with black pepper aioli. To be honest, the subtle flavor of the pokeweed was masked by the batter, but the batter itself was sublime — fried in clean oil, it was light and slightly chewy, and substantial enough to support the aioli, which had a wonderfully fragrant zing of black pepper. Also not to be missed are the pomme frites, the best on this side of the pond.

The entrées are all spectacular as well. When Rob ordered the rack of lamb on our first trip, we were hooked. Juicy tenderness inside an aromatic browned exterior, with an intense port reduction that complemented and did not obscure the meat. It was the best rack of lamb that either one of us had ever had. Another highlight is the skate wing special that I had last Friday. This fish was new to me, and boy what a revelation! The preparation was just a simple sear that allowed the fish to shine. The fibrous texture is perhaps not for everyone, but I really enjoyed the meaty mouthfeel that was not dense like (overcooked) shark or swordfish. Since it had a light flavor, the skate was accompanied by equally light sides of grilled zucchini, rutabaga chips, and a lemon-asparagus sauce. Wonderful.

The pasta dishes and rotating entrée salads are more affordable options but no less satisfying. My favorite of the pasta offerings is the baked rotini casserole. Much more than mac and cheese, this heaping portion of al dente pasta is smothered in a cheesy cream sauce that is rich but not too heavy. Garlic, herbs, and truffle oil elevate this comforting dish above the everyday. Last Friday, Rob had a Thai-inspired entrée salad with greens, lots of large grilled shrimp, mango salsa, and a gingery dressing. As generous and tasty as it was, he felt it was too much of the same by the end and actually preferred the previous entrée salad, which was a Waldorf-like collage of greens, apples, goat cheese, beet chips, and — the best part — fried cubes of slab bacon, all coated in a raspberry vinaigrette.

I must also make special mention of their cheeseburger. There is no shortage of first-rate burgers in Ithaca, and many are tops in their own ways. But if I had to pick one, it would be the Fine Line burger. High-quality meat, expertly grilled, topped with a winning combination of crunchy shaved fennel, a thin slice of emmenthaler cheese (just the right amount), and a slightly sweet smoked tomato remoulade, this burger is both classy and hearty, nuanced and robust, and not the least bit greasy. I could eat this every day. But of course, I don't....

The one weakness of the menu is the limited dessert selection (only three or four items). Of these, the cheesecake and ginger crème brulée are especially nice — creamy but not cloying. The recent addition of bread pudding (which they named pain au plaisir) is most welcome. It's made with a chewy (Italian?) bread, and the custard is more milky than eggy and not too sweet. It's a somewhat soupy creation that goes wonderfully with the fresh strawberries and blueberries that come on the side.

The main strength of the Fine Line Bistro that keeps us returning week after week is the inventive, self-assured style of cooking. The ingredients are fresh and are married with flavors that enhance each other. The preparations are simple when necessary and always show great attention to detail, highlighting the ingredients rather than the other way around. Every time we go, Rob and I hardly talk while we eat, which is a sure sign that we're concentrating on the food.