New Ribs in Town

Hog's Back BBQ (Kansas City style) is a very welcome new addition to Ithaca's dining options. It's located at 120 Third Street, home of Pangea. And not only did Hog's Back not displace Pangea (as Rob and I originally surmised and lamented), but it turns out that both restaurants are sharing the same space, with the Pangea menu available only on weekends. When we walked in to Pangea's familiar, lush, and velvety dining room, we were approached by a waitperson in a red Hog's Back t-shirt who asked "Hog's Back or Pangea?". This was a bit jarring, as the choices seemed incongruous. Of course, we could have ordered from either menu, but we came for barbeque, and Pangea's sublime mushroom fricassee could wait until next time.

Ever since Ralph's Ribs on Rt. 13 closed, Ithaca has had a dearth of truly great barbeque. Which isn't to say that no one else in town does ribs correctly, but that I missed having an establishment with a single-minded devotion to barbeque. It's about dedication and clarity of vision.

Hog's Back is just as good as Ralph's was, yet also completely different. The Hog's Back ribs are more refined and super meaty. The raw ingredients are of obviously high quality, and the smoking process infuses some wonderful aromas without drying them out. The tangy sweet sauce is sparingly applied, allowing the meat to "speak for itself". In taking a bite, the barely crispy exterior gives way to a plump and tender and flavorful (and pink) interior. Heaven on a bone!

Rob had the combo plate that included some superb sausage and brisket. Dinners come with generous portions of cornbread (excellent but not as good as Maxie's), coleslaw (crispy, with a perfect creaminess and lots of freshly ground black pepper), and one side. I chose beans and rice (which were bland with an odd fishy taste), and Rob had the collard greens (simply prepared with a touch of lemon -- very nice).

By the time dessert rolled around, Rob and I were both too full. Instead, we ordered a Pangea chocolate lava cake to go. Now we truly had the best of both worlds.