My Winter CSA Journal

This winter, Rob and I joined our first CSA. From December to February, we will be the lucky weekly recipients of a half-bushel of seasonal local produce from the Full Plate Farm Collective. The farms of Full Plate are among our favorites in the area: Remembrance Farms (which grows the best salad greens), Stick and Stone Farm, and Three Swallows Farm. Winter is a good time for hearty slow-cooked meals that warm the body and home, and the root vegetables and chewy greens of the season are well-suited to stewing. Here is how we used the first three weeks of vegetable shares. It has been a struggle to keep up with the bounty.

WEEK #1:
Cabbage
Kale
Beets
Acorn squash
Leeks
Carrots
Potatoes
Turnips
Garlic
Navy beans

Raw carrots: These carrots were an eye-opener. I had no idea that freshly-rooted carrots had such a sweet, clear taste. Bagged carrots from the grocery store are slightly bitter and dull by comparison. And indeed, after a week in the fridge, our CSA carrots developed a similar stale metallic tinge. But straight out of the box, these carrots were a real crisp treat. Our dogs love them, too.

Indian cabbage and carrots: based on a Madhur Jaffrey recipe. I sliced about one pound of cabbage and shredded an equal weight of carrots. I heated mustard oil in a wok and fried some whole black mustard seed and cumin seed until the mustard seeds popped. Then, I threw in a couple whole dried chilies and stirred them until they darkened (kept whole, they don't impart much heat to the dish -- just aroma). Next, the cabbage went in and, after a minute or so, the carrots. When the cabbage was just tender, I seasoned with salt and a touch of vinegar. The original recipe also calls for minced fresh green chile and chopped cilantro, which I didn't have on hand, unfortunately.

Kale and leeks: based on an Alice Waters recipe. I sliced the leeks crosswise and washed them in a sinkful of cold water. After draining, I sautéed them in plenty of olive oil with a few cloves of crushed garlic. After they were a little browned, I added the washed chopped kale, along with a cup or so of chicken broth, and simmered for about 25 minutes. The result was a fragrant Italianate reduction of greens, small but dense, chock full of calcium.

Navy beans: I soaked a whole pound of dried beans overnight in cold water. The next morning, they went in the slow cooker with water to cover and simmered until evening. These beans were delicions on their own, but I also used them in other dishes (see below).

Turkey soup: in a large stockpot, I browned some minced garlic in olive oil, and then added chopped leftover Thanksgiving turkey, turkey bones, a Parmesan rind, cubed carrots and potatoes, sliced cabbage, and chicken broth. This mixture was simmered until the potatoes were tender, about 40 minutes. Being waxy, the fingerling potatoes remained whole and firm and were wonderfully sweet. Towards the end, I added some cooked navy beans and seasoned the soup with dried oregano, a bit of mustard, and ketchup (in lieu of tomato paste).

WEEK #2:
Acorn squash
Collards
Brussels sprouts
Beets
Potatoes
Parsnips
Red onions
Carrots
Garlic

Beet mushroom curry: also based on a Madhur Jaffrey recipe. I peeled and cubed 2-1/2 pounds of beets (plus the remaining turnips from Week #1) and sliced 28 oz. of mushrooms (two packages). I also diced a large red onion and minced several cloves of garlic. In a large stockpot, I heated some vegetable oil and fried half a tablespoon each of mustard seed and cumin seed until the mustard seeds popped. Then, the onion and garlic went in to brown. The browned bits added a slightly smoky flavor to the stew. After the aromatics dried out, I sprinkled a couple teaspoons of dried ginger and one teaspoon of powdered cayenne pepper into the hot oil (in lieu of the fresh ginger and chile called for in the recipe). Finally, the beets and mushrooms were added, along with about four cups of tomato sauce and two cups of water, and the whole thing was simmered for about 40 minutes until the beets were tender.

Brussels sprouts sauteed in brown butter: I picked the mini-cabbages off two stalks of Brussels sprouts, slicing the larger ones in half. In a wok, I melted two tablespoons of butter and allowed it to brown. Then, I added a splash of mustard oil and the brussels sprouts. After a few minutes, I added a couple spoonfuls of ground coriander and some salt and continued to sauté for a few more minutes until the sprouts. I also toasted a couple handfuls of walnuts, ground them in a mortar and pestle, and added them to the sprouts towards the end of cooking. When the sprouts started to tenderize, I added some water with a spoonful of vinegar to deglaze the pan, and I turned off the heat when the sauce had slightly reduced.

WEEK #3:
Carrots
Potatoes
Rutabaga
Celeriac
Leeks
Baby Collards
Garlic
Pumpkin

Collards: After heating some oil in a heavy saucepan, I added two sliced onions and a few cloves of crushed garlic. When the onions turned translucent, I added two bunches of washed collards sliced into ribbons. After they wilted, I poured in two cups of chicken broth and simmered for 40 minutes. Halfway through, I added a couple diced carrots. At the end, I spooned in the last of our navy beans, about one cup. The beans and carrots added a light complexity to a dish that is usually meaty and smoky.

Roasted parsnips and potatoes: Rob used the oven for this simple preparation. He diced the two gigantic parsnips we received in our share, along with a few potatoes. These were placed in a baking dish and tossed with olive oil and salt and then baked at 350 degrees for 45 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes or so. After 30 minutes, he added half a teaspoon of ground dried thyme and some black pepper.

Rutabaga hash: Another one by Rob. He peeled the rutabaga and a couple potatoes and cut them into small dice. These were sauteed in plenty of oil until browned. Served with eggs and sausage, this bright orange hash made a wonderful late night breakfast.

Root vegetable soup: sort of a warm Vichyssoise. I fried two cleaned and sliced leeks in olive oil and, when they started to brown, added four small cubed potatoes, four small cubed rutabagas, one cubed celery root, and enough chicken broth to cover (about six cups). When the broth came to a boil, I added a teaspoon each of ground ginger and dried rosemary (fresh would have been better for both, I think). After 30 minutes or so, the vegetables were tender, and I turned off the heat, puréed the soup with a hand blender, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and extra virgin olive oil.

Winter squash: TBA