Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Sausage, Rutabaga, and Quince

Last week's winter fruit share from the Finger Lakes Fruit Bowl included a couple of quinces. I had heard of quinces, of course, but had never really encountered them before. And I had no idea what to do with them. They require cooking and are good for making preserves due to their high pectin content, but I was hoping for a more savory use for them. Fortunately, I came across Alice Waters' recipe for Lamb Tagine with Quinces in her cookbook Fruit. Here, I've adapted it to the ingredients I had on hand -- pork sausage instead of lamb, rutabaga as filler.

The result was eye-opening. I knew pork worked well with fruit, but the quinces imparted not sweetness as much as an old-world perfume that brought the dish to another level. The pairing with rutabaga was fortuitous. This starchier version of a turnip gave the dish bulk without heaviness, and its earthiness accentuated the quinces' aroma.

I will definitely be seeking out quinces much more in the future.

6 links mild Italian sausage (about 1.5 pounds), sliced
1 large onion, chopped
1-1/2 inch fresh ginger, grated
1 cinnamon stick
2 t. coriander
1 very large rutabaga, peeled and thinly sliced
1 very large carrot, sliced
2 quinces (washed but left unpeeled), cut into eighths and cored
1 T. honey
1 t. vinegar
salt and pepper to taste

Saute the sausage in a little oil until the fat is rendered and no liquid remains. Add the onion, ginger, and cinnamon, and cook until the onion begins to brown. Stir in the coriander and then quickly add the rutabaga, carrot, and quinces. Pour in enough water to submerge the vegetables halfway and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until the quince and rutabaga are tender. Uncover, add the honey and vinegar, and season to taste.

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